We FINALLY took advantage of the offer of Rod's customer, Jeff Loomis, to use his corporate apartment in Paris over Christmas and the New Year holidays and wow, the BEST Christmas ever!!!!
Because I hate Heathrow Airport in London and did not want to spend hours for connections between flights, we probably paid a little more for air fare than we might have, but it was well worth it. On December 19 we boarded the Evans bus to SFO, after leaving a four page volume of instructions for the cat sitter/chicken sitter, Dennis Forbyn's daughter Kristen. The flight took us from SFO to Washington Dulles, and from there straight on to Paris. Easy peasy lemon squeezie!
Once in Paris, we called for our shuttle and waited ...... and waited....... Finally another call and the (unmarked) van showed up for our ride to 101 Rue Du Temple. We had no idea where (which Arondissment) the apartment was located, so there were many turns, tiny streets, and much to see before we finally got there. Denise Koh, the concierge to the apartment, met us there and showed us all of the ins and outs -- code for front door (a big heavy door that led into the foyer), how to work the key to the apartment (two flights up deliciously worn wooden stairs), and where everything was located. Once we unloaded our bags, we went in search of a bistro for quiche and salad (and hot chocolate for Rod) and on the way back, we bought a tiny Christmas tree for the apartment.
And oh, the apartment!!!! Jeff calls it "Le Shack" and it is anything but.
While we waited for Linda and Virgil to arrive, we set up the Christmas tree, hung the stockings (on removable hooks, of course) and went to the ATM and grocery for some very basic provisions. Linda and Virgil arrived at at 8:30 pm Paris time in a drizzly rain, and since we were all exhausted, turned in to begin our adventures the following morning.
We all sleep LATE but when we finally drag ourselves out of bed, Linda and Virgil have already been to the boulangerie for croissants and tangerines for notre petite dejunere (breakfast). We set out walking toward Notre Dame (only about a 10 minute walk from the apartment), passing le Hotel de Ville (city Hall) with its ice skating rink and carousel. Also the nearest metro station for the main line (Line 1 - Yellow) from which you can transfer to almost anywhere you want to go.
Notre Dame is as beautiful as ever, but the crowds are not nearly as large as during the summer. We take many pictures. There is an enormous Christmas tree in front on the plaza.
Inside, there is a creche and of course the stunning rose windows and paintings. We do NOT climb to the bell tower!
We find our way to St. Chappelle, where we have tickets for a Christmas Eve concert, and marvel at the elaborate gates in the Palais du Justice.
Then across the Seine on the Pont Neuf toward St. Michele and the Latin Quarter on the Rive Gauche (Left Bank)
After some shopping and a pizza lunch in the Latin Quarter, we see posters for a Classical music presentation at Eglise St. Julien Le Pauvre (the Church of St Julien the Poor) and decide we definitely want to go to this one -- arias and Ave Maria.
Shop Window Rive Gauche
As it is getting dark, it's onto the Metro to head for the Christmas Fair at the Champs D'Elysees.
Little wooden booths all along the street sell hot wine, foie gras, Christmas ornaments, stuffed animals, scarves, hats, gloves, cheese, sausages, crepes, jewelry, ceramics, and lots of other wonderful stuff. The lights and decorations are very modern, very Parisian!
The highlight of the Christmas Market is when Pere Noel (father Christmas) rides across the sky in his lighted sleigh and reminds all of the children to be good !
As we walk down the Champs D'Elysees we see the Virgin Megastore and pop in to buy our concert tickets, then head on down toward the Arc de Triomphe.
We ALMOST make it to the Place de la Concorde before our feet give out. Bu the arch looks beautiful at night
Before we get onto the Metro and head home, we stop for sausages in rolls with good French mustard !
The next morning under a cold and drizzly sky we head out for Monmarte. Boulevard Clichy reminds me of Broadway in SF with loads of sex shops and neon lights. After a short stop at Tati (the French version of Big Lots, you could say) we head up to the funicular that goes to the top of the hill to Sacre Couer.
There is a small Christmas market up there and the hot wine tastes especially good on such a cold and drizzly day. The view from this area is also incredible, even in the rain.
Then back to the Metro to head back home for a shower and change of clothes, plus a bistro late lunch
I wish I could say we took pictures at the Moulin Rouge, but that was strictly forbidden. Our tickets that night included two bottles of champagne, which we eagerly downed while watching the glitz and glamour of old vaudeville, complete with a ventriloquist, juggler, shadow puppet guy and OF course topless dancers in glittery costumes. Yes, they danced the can can, and yes the ride home on the Metro was hysterically funny (or maybe it was just the champagne). To see what we could not photograph, go to this link:
http://www.moulinrouge.fr/ . Click on the lower left hand corner for English (Anglais) . Just had to do this just once!!!
The following day we went to L'Orangerie museum to see the huge Monet waterlily murals and the wonderful collection that includes Picasso, Cezanne, Gaugin, Manet, Berthe Morisot, and more. I also went to the Diane Arbus exhibit in the small gallery next door while Linda and Virgil set off for the Louvre.
L'Orangerie is set in Tuilleres Parc and was the giant greenhouse/solarium where tropical fruits could be grown in the winter (hence the name) during the reign of Louis XIV.
We then had lunch at Minim's (the bistro connected with Maxim's) at the Place de la Concord on Rue Royale.
Back to Le Shack early and grocery shopping at our neighborhood grocery and greengrocer. We had a delicious dinner of scrambled eggs with asparagus, mushrooms, and cheese, along with a salad of fresh greens with chives, chevre, and almonds along with the scrumptious baguettes miel from our neighborhood patisserie and the white wine we ended up drinking nearly every night because it was really good and really cheap (we called the the French equivalent of 2 Buck Chuck but oh so much tastier!!!). Then we played a game of Mexican Train and to bed.
By this time, we were becoming familiar with our neighborhood -- Le Marais, the 3rd Arondissment, or district, We got to know the local boucherie (butcher), patisserie (bakery), fruits and legumes marche (fruit and vegetable market) and grocery (monoprix), since we bought our food daily like the French do. Everything was within walking distance and every bit of food we bought was simply wonderful -- so fresh and flavorful. The champignons (mushrooms) were huge and earthy on the stems as though they had just been pulled from the ground. The chickens, turkeys, and ducks hung by their feet with their heads on at the butcher, and every tiny grocery store had an impressive array of wine and champagne at reasonable prices.
Our neighborhood included the Pompideau Center of Modern Art, Hotel de Ville, the big BHV Department store, boutiques, the Jewish history and culture museum, and a short walk to the Centre Bastille, Republique, Place des Voges (early home of the kings of France), and Carandalet museum -- the History of Paris. During our stay we saw all of these places
This is a typical grocery store in le Marais, our neighborhood.
This is the view looking down the street toward the Pompideau Center from Hotel de Ville in our neighborhood
Pompideau Center -- across the street is one of the grocery stores where we bought provisions
This monument commemorates the taking of the Bastille (a huge medieval prison) that began the French Revolution. The Bastille was torn down and the bricks used to build the plaza for this monument. It is also in our neighborhood, le Marais.
On Friday the 23rd, we had a lazy day. Rod's back was really bothering him, and a tumble that I took on the sidewalk had bruised my ribs, so we stayed close to home, laundering towels and watching CNN. We made tagliatelle carbonara, salad,and baguettes for dinner with some more of that good cheap wine.
On Christmas Eve the sun came out! We hurried to buy the fixings for our Christmas dinner and then Rod and Virgil retired to the apartment. Linda and I ventured out to do some Christmas shopping and discovered the National Archives nearby. We went to the BHV Department store and bought a salad bowl for Le Shack, and to one of the many souvenir shops on the way to Notre Dame.
I managed to bargain in French with a shop keeper to reduce the price of this nifty angora beret from 15 Euro down to ten! Linda and I had more vin chaud (hot wine) and lunch at a bistro across from Notre Dame.
Then to St. Chappelle for the Christmas Concert -- we were treated to Bach and Vivaldi in this most charming and historic venue, where Marie Antoinette spent her final days in prayer before her beheading!
After we sneakily filled all of the stockings, we went to bed to wait for Christmas Day.
On Christmas morning, there was no hurry to get up. We lazed around drinking cafe au lait (yes we had mastered the built in espresso machine that turned out the BEST coffee, and mastered the cooktop to heat our milk) and then opened our stockings to find scarves, hats, aprons, cookies, T-shirts, chocolate for Rodney, a glass Eiffel tower for Linda, and a music box that plays "La Vie en Rose" for Virgil. Linda got me some very cool fingerless mitts that were trimmed in rabbit fur. Joyeaux Noel!!!!!!
Rod, Linda and Cindy model their new Christmas gear
Rod models his new hat, scarf, t-shirt, and book on "the Best Places to Kiss in Paris".
We get dressed and go out. A bright day to walk to Notre Dame for the 12:45 Christmas Mass. Us and about 5,000 Parisiens. We get close enough to the front to see communion being given and see the recessional leave to the strains of "Angels We Have Heard on High" (in Latin, of course).
Many of the souvenir shops are open, and I get two T-shirts and a dishtowel for Le Shack. Our neighborhood grocer is open so we get milk and sandwich fixings. Back at Le Shack we make ham,cheese, tomato and avocado sandwiches with the remainder of the large loaf of bread I bought yesterday and drink some more of that good wine. We laze around watching TV until it's time to make dinner.
And WHAT a dinner!!!! Roasted tiny new potatoes with garlic and herbes de Provence, haricots verts avec lard et pignoles (green beans with bacon and pine nuts), dinon (turkey) breast fillets sauteed with garlic and champignons (mushrooms), salad with caramelized chevre and tomatoes, champagne, and for desert, chocolate tarts for Virgil and Rodney, raspberry tarts for Linda and me. We all agree that this is the best Christmas dinner ever. Oh, and I almost forgot -- baguettes and foie gras!!!!
After dinner, we watched "An American in Paris" (le Shack has many good DVDs) and go to sleep happy, a little drunk, and filled with Paris.
The next day we decided to use our "L'Open Tour" bus tickets around the city in the double decker open top buses. It was a glorious sunny day so we took the loop to Bercy-Bstille down Rivoli and out to the "new" Paris in the southeast corner of the city. Then, because we were freezing, we stopped for a vin chaud and quiche at a cafe across from St. Chappelle. Althought we had hoped to get in for a day time tour (the light through the stained glass windows is something to see), the lines were formidable. So we got back on the bus for the "Paris Grand Tour".
We passed Napoleon's Tomb on the bus, and L'Hospital des Inalides, once a veteran's hospital, now a military museum.
Then to the Champs D'Elysees with a daytime view of the Christmas Market and the Grand Palais, where the French presidents reside. This building was constructed for the World's fair during the belle Epoch at the turn of the 19th Century
And finally to le Arc de Triomphe during the daytime at the far end of the Champs D'elysees.
With such a spectacular vista on a sunny day, no wonder Paris is called "the City of Lights" (night time, too.)
We had hoped to catch the next route out to Monmarte, but discovered the only line running after 6:30 pm was the main one (which we had just ridden), so we had a disappointing dinner at a greek restaurant on the Left Bank (the only truly disappointing meal we had in two weeks!) and headed home.
The next day, Rod and I walked down to the Jewish museum in our neighborhood and after this, rounded up provision for sandwiches (everything tastes better on a baguette!). Late that afternoon, we headed out to St. Michel and walked around until our concert started at 6:00 at L'Eglise St. Julienne de Pauvre. I bought a pair of red shoes -- very cute and look like little elf shoes. We listened to opera arias and two different versions of Ave Maria, plus the aria from La Boehm, right in the front row in the heated small church. Afterward, we stopped for crepes and hot chocolate before heading home.
On December 28, Rod and I walked to Musee Carnavalet, a FREE museum of Parisian history just a ten minute stroll from le Shack. Most interesting to me were the rooms dedicated to the French Revolution, which included artifacts from the cells of Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI-- even a locket with locks of their hair! At the museum, I bought books about both the Museum and our neighborhood, le Marais.
Cooked a dinner that night of pasta with mushrooms, garlic, butter, cheese and chopped parsley accompanied by a salad and those ubiquitous and delicious baguettes. We always keep cheese, bread, tangerines, pistachios, and foie gras around for munching (and boy do we munch -- everything tastes better in Paris).
The next day was beautiful and sunny, so we decided to take advantage of our tickets for a cruise on the Seine on the Bateaux Parisiens.
Right toward the end of the trip, it began to get colder and the sky clouded up. perfect timing to board the Metro and head for the Musee Marmottan Monet on the Rue Louis Boilly -- a peaceful green area surrounding a beautiful park in the northwest corner of Paris. Great exhibits of not only Monet, but also Impressionists Sisely and Cross and a bit of the Fauves. Very nice museum and busy but not mobbed. Here is the link to the museum: http://www.marmottan.com/ Then we had a late lunch/early dinner at a brasserie in the neighborhood. back on the Metro, we got off at an unfamiliar stop (Rod said "Trust me") and at night a little disorienting. But Rod got us home coming in from the direction Republique instead of our usual direction Hotel de Ville. Once home, a little wine, a little cheese and pate, a little TV. and to bed.
On December 30, we went to visit the Opera House, amazing with its ornate decoration, costume displays, and the ceiling of the theater painted by Chagalle depicting many operas, including The Magic Flute .
We had a quiet New Year's Eve, only going out to buy the fixings for tonight's dinner. It takes a while to stand in line at the butcher, patisserie, grocery and greengrocer, but SO worth it for the astonishing food. We made sauteed veal with mushrooms in mustard cream sauce, steamed asparagus, roasted tiny red potatoes, and salad. Tiramasu for dessert with chocolate ice cream (unlike any I have ever eaten here -- this was some intense chocolate), and of course -- champagne.
As midnight approached, we watched a party going on in the apartment across the street -- lots of dancing and carrying on by people much younger than we are!!!!! Toasts and kisses at midnight and saying goodbye to 2011 in Paris!
We have been staying up late watching a "Mad Men" marathon on the Sundance channel (not many in English except this one and CNN Europe ). It is season on and none of us have Showtime at home,so we never have watched this. Of course, we are hooked now.
After nearly two weeks, we have become Parisiens -- buying our food every day, learning how to use all of the mysterious electronics in Le Shack, joking with the greengrocer, and bargaining en Francais. We have our cafe au lait every morning and baguettes galore (oh how I will miss them!!). We take a tote bag shopping and can find our way around with ease. The Metro is no mystery and we love our neighborhood. if only we had our cats, life would be complete.
On New Year's day we wake up late and have a fritatta made from eggs with last night's leftover potatoes, asparagus, ham and cheese. We toast baguettes to go with the fritatta.
Then we walk down to Place des Vosges , built in 1612 and the royal palace for Louis XIII and Anne of Austria prior to the Louvre being turned into the Royal Palace. Again, this is in our neighborhood, Le Marais.
On our last full day in Paris, we walked around our neighborhood, exploring the area toward Place de Republique that we had not spent much time in (during the day at least). We found a real supermarket that we had not known about, plus a clothing store that had reasonable priced jackets and coats -- if only I had known about this the first days!!! We brought clothing hat was WAY too warm for how the weather turned out to be. Also visited a church -- Our Lady of Sorrow and Saint Elizabeth that contained exquisite wood carved panels inside lining the walls with scenes from the bible. Linda and I spent a little time sketching until it got too cold, then home to strip the beds, pack, and get ready for a 3 am (yikes) departure for the airport.
We love Paris.
Then to the Champs D'Elysees with a daytime view of the Christmas Market and the Grand Palais, where the French presidents reside. This building was constructed for the World's fair during the belle Epoch at the turn of the 19th Century
And finally to le Arc de Triomphe during the daytime at the far end of the Champs D'elysees.
The bus also traveled by the "new" Opera House, with a breathtaking view of the Eiffel Tower.
We had hoped to catch the next route out to Monmarte, but discovered the only line running after 6:30 pm was the main one (which we had just ridden), so we had a disappointing dinner at a greek restaurant on the Left Bank (the only truly disappointing meal we had in two weeks!) and headed home.
The next day, Rod and I walked down to the Jewish museum in our neighborhood and after this, rounded up provision for sandwiches (everything tastes better on a baguette!). Late that afternoon, we headed out to St. Michel and walked around until our concert started at 6:00 at L'Eglise St. Julienne de Pauvre. I bought a pair of red shoes -- very cute and look like little elf shoes. We listened to opera arias and two different versions of Ave Maria, plus the aria from La Boehm, right in the front row in the heated small church. Afterward, we stopped for crepes and hot chocolate before heading home.
On December 28, Rod and I walked to Musee Carnavalet, a FREE museum of Parisian history just a ten minute stroll from le Shack. Most interesting to me were the rooms dedicated to the French Revolution, which included artifacts from the cells of Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI-- even a locket with locks of their hair! At the museum, I bought books about both the Museum and our neighborhood, le Marais.
Cooked a dinner that night of pasta with mushrooms, garlic, butter, cheese and chopped parsley accompanied by a salad and those ubiquitous and delicious baguettes. We always keep cheese, bread, tangerines, pistachios, and foie gras around for munching (and boy do we munch -- everything tastes better in Paris).
The next day was beautiful and sunny, so we decided to take advantage of our tickets for a cruise on the Seine on the Bateaux Parisiens.
Right toward the end of the trip, it began to get colder and the sky clouded up. perfect timing to board the Metro and head for the Musee Marmottan Monet on the Rue Louis Boilly -- a peaceful green area surrounding a beautiful park in the northwest corner of Paris. Great exhibits of not only Monet, but also Impressionists Sisely and Cross and a bit of the Fauves. Very nice museum and busy but not mobbed. Here is the link to the museum: http://www.marmottan.com/ Then we had a late lunch/early dinner at a brasserie in the neighborhood. back on the Metro, we got off at an unfamiliar stop (Rod said "Trust me") and at night a little disorienting. But Rod got us home coming in from the direction Republique instead of our usual direction Hotel de Ville. Once home, a little wine, a little cheese and pate, a little TV. and to bed.
Then on to the Museum of Modern Art -- kind of a disappointment after all we had seen, but a handful of Matisse and Picasso works made the trip worthwhile.
We had a quiet New Year's Eve, only going out to buy the fixings for tonight's dinner. It takes a while to stand in line at the butcher, patisserie, grocery and greengrocer, but SO worth it for the astonishing food. We made sauteed veal with mushrooms in mustard cream sauce, steamed asparagus, roasted tiny red potatoes, and salad. Tiramasu for dessert with chocolate ice cream (unlike any I have ever eaten here -- this was some intense chocolate), and of course -- champagne.
As midnight approached, we watched a party going on in the apartment across the street -- lots of dancing and carrying on by people much younger than we are!!!!! Toasts and kisses at midnight and saying goodbye to 2011 in Paris!
We have been staying up late watching a "Mad Men" marathon on the Sundance channel (not many in English except this one and CNN Europe ). It is season on and none of us have Showtime at home,so we never have watched this. Of course, we are hooked now.
After nearly two weeks, we have become Parisiens -- buying our food every day, learning how to use all of the mysterious electronics in Le Shack, joking with the greengrocer, and bargaining en Francais. We have our cafe au lait every morning and baguettes galore (oh how I will miss them!!). We take a tote bag shopping and can find our way around with ease. The Metro is no mystery and we love our neighborhood. if only we had our cats, life would be complete.
On New Year's day we wake up late and have a fritatta made from eggs with last night's leftover potatoes, asparagus, ham and cheese. We toast baguettes to go with the fritatta.
Then we walk down to Place des Vosges , built in 1612 and the royal palace for Louis XIII and Anne of Austria prior to the Louvre being turned into the Royal Palace. Again, this is in our neighborhood, Le Marais.
On our last full day in Paris, we walked around our neighborhood, exploring the area toward Place de Republique that we had not spent much time in (during the day at least). We found a real supermarket that we had not known about, plus a clothing store that had reasonable priced jackets and coats -- if only I had known about this the first days!!! We brought clothing hat was WAY too warm for how the weather turned out to be. Also visited a church -- Our Lady of Sorrow and Saint Elizabeth that contained exquisite wood carved panels inside lining the walls with scenes from the bible. Linda and I spent a little time sketching until it got too cold, then home to strip the beds, pack, and get ready for a 3 am (yikes) departure for the airport.
We love Paris.
